Lehrjahre and Wanderjahre   95 The " tags " to his sisters (see Plate L) follow as usual

"DEAR EMMA, since I wrote the first part of this letter I have been sketching most tremendously-I took 33 drawings in the space of 4 hours or so in going from Bonn to Coblentz. I have taken also a great many others. - I am so very tired, that good bye and believe me ever your affectionate F. Galton. DEAR BESS, I have duly kept your precepts in mind about the immeasurable superiority of Englishmen. I have not looked out yet for vellum for you, because of carrying it such a distance. DEAR DELLY, I am very glad I did not bother my head with Dutch lingo. Get 20 phrases in your head, and in a few weeks you will speak German like a house on fire. Give my love to Erasmus and Darwin. Good bye, FRAxcis GALTON."

In several towns the hospitals are visited. In Frankfort we read

"They say that this is a very clean hospital, but I never fully appreciated the value of fresh air till I found myself without its wards."

Then followed Darmstadt

"Looked up the Museum; the jawbone of Jhe Dudotherium and all that sort of fossil nonsense (!) "

Then to Heidelberg and on to Stuttgart and Augsburg with the Danube and Vienna as goal. Francis writes very patriotically : he is thoroughly enjoying himself, but his mind is expanding

"There is certainly nothing more useful than travelling. The more you seethe more you are convinced of the superiority of England. However nothing can be so admirable as a German or Frenchman who loves his country ; it must be a great and genuine patriotism to be able thus to prefer it   I wish you were there to see all the beautiful scenery we have passed through. The views were by far the most splendid I have ever seen. The architecture is very curious there is a great deal of the old Roman style. I have never seen a perfect building of that style in England."

And again of Cologne Cathedral, " it is most splendid ...I never saw anything like it in England." Francis had yet to learn that the existence of patriotism is not contingent on the possession, of the best ! In Heidelberg there was also experience of first class medical ability

"Tiedermann a top-sawyer of the medical line and a whole quantity of others. There was also a Dr Cobalt to whom we had letters of introduction, a doctor who has made himself celebrated by transferring a wax candle (without the wick) from a candlestick into some holes in a skull i.e. as M.D.'s would call it, injecting the veinous system of the bones with wax (I think that is the phrase)."

In a letter from Munich we see that Francis has now to excuse his coming conversion `to Bessy.

"DEAR BESSY, I always keep your precepts in mind, but after all the Germans are not so bad. Remember that as you told me the Hanoverians are our cousins, and the other states are brothers to them, and so they are related to us. Also smoking is not