132 Life and Letters of Francis Galton
Professor who gives me lessons is a delectable old man, quite an original, who has 17 (! !) pipes in his room and who smokes to a corresponding extent. Tell Pemmy that there is a splendid cathedral at Limburg, almost unknown to Englishmen,-and Byzantine architecture with a touch of Gothic, just like the church of the apostles at Coln, only much more splendid. By the bye in case that you should fancy any part of this letter to be a " take in," I can assure you that I never was more in earnest in my life. Having nothing more to say'-with many thanks for your kind consent to my travels. I remain Your affectionate son FRAS. GALTON.
P.S. I have just opened to say that I have seen one of the professors here who went a similar tour last year, and the one that we have together concocted is Frankfort, Wurzburg, Ratisbon, Passau, Linz, Vienna, Constantinople, Smyrna, Athens, Patras, Ancona, Rome, Livorno, Pisa, Florence, Livorno, Genoa, Marseilles and Paris. I have plenty of time. I could see this all very well, quarantines &c., andd be back on the 18th Sept., but I will take more time. [In pencil.] I start tomorrow at 7 in the morning. In case of a letter from you crossing this Miller will take care of it.
Francis actually set off on July 31st with Dr Meyer for Frankfort, the Doctor having parted Schmollens " fashion from several of his fellow-students. The picture the diary provides for us is that of an intensely happy boy-full of fun and feeling himself out for a bit of a frolic truant fashion. At Frankfort, Francis began to drop the unnecessary : " Left in a parcel 1 coat, 1 pr trousers, Liebig's Chemistry Part z., Liebig's Organic Chemistry and the handbook for Northern Germany (1836) with the map torn out." He had time, however, to " scetch " (sic!) very neatly in pen and ink the Katharinen-Kirche and a general view of the town. The next stage is Wurzburg, with some careful pencil work sketches of the town, and here Galton fell in with a travelling companion
"Aug. 2. Went to sleep on the sofa in the coffee room and on awaking a scrubbylooking little Hungarian addressed me in bad English, asked me my route and said that we should be fellow travellers to Wien. Set off at 12 for NUrnburg, a Lady being the only other person in the diligence. The little Hungarian no sooner perceived a petticoat in the diligence than he bellowed out for lanterns most furiously, but notwithstanding his exertions couldn't get one, so cursing awfully sat down with his eyes 3 inches from the girl's face. On passing out we came close by a light which exposed the physiognomy of the girl, and the Hungarian being satisfied commenced a most vigorous courtship. He told me that it was quite necessary for me to make myself an adept in the art, and so I tried and with some success fell fast asleep.
Aug. 3. Awoke and found him holding both hands of the girl and singing love songs. I accordingly burst out laughing in which they both joined. I then began my flirtation with much more success than my rival, at which his mustachios desponded and looked sad. Arrived at Nurnburg at 12. Marie, for such she said was her name, gave me a bit of an artificial flower that she wore, but would not let me crib some of her